December 23rd, 2007
This is the 3rd Part of the summary of our trip around Australia: if you came in late:
Part 1 is here
Part 2 is here
The general plan I described as we waited to service the truck in Melbourne pretty* WPG2 Plugin Not Validated *much worked out - that’ a first! We wanted to go to Broken Hill, the unlikely location of my first post-graduation job back in the 80’s so we headed pretty much due north. We dodged rain through Ballarat, Bendigo and Swan Hill on the Murray River it was fine up at Midlura but the damage had already been done at Mungo National Park* WPG2 Plugin Not Validated * Broken Hill was a serious case of deja vu unlike the rest of Australia Broken Hill hasn’t had a property boom and most of the town, including the house I lived in most of the time was still there and only now being renovated!
Broken Hill ended up being a week-long stop as we took a 4WD course and shopped for a month! The coure was a very,very wise investment - as it would have cost a lot more that the $450 course fees if we had got stuck on the backroads to Cameron’s corner in the middle of nowhere but with excellent internet access! You have to get stuck once on a trip and the time at Cameron’s corner was long enough to be fun without becoming too tedious - in short a couple of hours rain turned the desert into green and stuck us for a couple of days waiting for the mud to go away!
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Now there seems to be a bit of a gap in the blog record - I didn’t realise I’d left so much out, or maybe some some of the entries went missing in the blogsphere? - but at least we had a diary so I will now try and fill in the gap a bit! Heading north from Cameron’s corner - we looped back through Queensland to get to Innaminka in a long day, there was plenty of water on the road but nothing to serious and the road improved as we got further north, Innaminka’s claim to fame is the famous Burke & Wills dig treat and their graves. Its tiny town still, with a decent pub and on Cooper’s Creek. We camped on the “common” and were pleased to find a resourceful business which had setup a combined laundry and hot showers!
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Heading further north go us to the famous Birdsville Pub, though we didn’t stay there we did have an excellent meal - in fact any meal I didn’t cook would have been good by then! Now we were back on the tourist track and had an easy run down the Birdsville track- practically a highway after the stuff that we had been on! The roadhouse 1/2 way down was basic but featured a free, natural hot pool - can’t ask much more than that really! The end of the Birdsville track is Maree, which is the start of the Oodnadatta Track -following the old Ghan railway north to Alice Springs.
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In Maree we ran into the fellow Kiwi’s from Camerons Corner - they had had a much more interesting time of it than we had - water over the bonnet- luckily they had a snorkel - we didn’t the road was closed after them once they got thru! Now following the old Ghan we got another geographical extreme the lowest point in Australia is Lake Eyre
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This wasn’t far out of William Creek which is no horse town with a pub and a camp ground and weird array of space debris from the “nearby” (400km) missile base of Woomera
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After basically 2 weeks worth of camping we were very happy to see the remote, underground town, of Coober Pedy. Other’s have said it was very isolated and weird, but they hadn’t spent 2 weeks travelling through some of Australia’s most remote areas. In fact compared to the well-known remote areas of Kakadu and Cape York this area really is very, very under-developed and well worth a trip if you are passing through.
We thoroughly enjoyed Coober Pedy for it’s urban environment, restaurants, multi-cultural community - we ate in a Greek restaurant surrounded by Greek speaking locals!
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We spent a couple of days there, splashing out on an underground motel and checking out the lcoal sites including the underground bookshop, the underground Serbian Othordox Church and the underground homes. Mining under the town has been banned for a number of years because of the risk of collapse, but you can extend your home - so one house has about 22 rooms and the “renovation” had a profit of many $10,000’s ! Outside of town it’s still all small scale mining - no large companies allowed - a truely unique spot - but not exactly beautiful!
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Coober Pedy is on the sealed Darwin-Adelaide highway but we headed back to Williams Creek to continue on up the Oodnadatta track towards Oodnadatta itself. Turning off to do a mere 15km detour to the Peake Telegraph station we hit the worst corrugations were the worst we have experienced. We drove back to the main road the corrugations were still bad, it took bascially 1 hour to do 15km. As we drove along, we detected something, and stopped – we had to fasten down the battery again, it had worked itself loose again. Also the car horn started going on of its own volition. The horn panel needed to be thumped to get it off again. Something had worked loose. We got to Oodnadatta as we drove in, the horn went on permanently this time and we drove back to the garage. The mechanic pulled the connection on the horn, fastest I’ve ever seen a mechanic move really!
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The next morning Truckie wouldn’t start so rather than continuing into even more remote country further north we headed back to the bitumen and Uluru, Ayers Rock. Tourist central suddenly - we barely got a spot at the road house at the turn off to Yulara (500km away) and at Yulara we had to queue and pay over $30 for a site! It was bit like Sydney again really. The rock hadn’t changed since the last time I was here, except we didn’t get to climb it, closed because of the wind. Heading the back way to Alice we went via Kings Canyon - which for my money is a much more spectacular site with excellent walks through, around and up it! We got off seal again and took on the “notorious” Menindee Loop Road - not even a serious off-road adventure after what we had been through! We camped at Glen Helen where there was a lodge and a bar, and an expensive restaurant. We compromised and went for Happy Hour, cooked tea the gas stove finally failed, there was a leak in the inlet joint which caught fire which we had to hurriedly turn off. We were rescued by two Italian guys who lent us their one. We were cooking and having the meal in a shed as there was no other facility and it was out of the biting wind. Lucky we didn’t burn it down!
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